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Tutorials - Making a Persian Kard
This is the finished knife that I've
made for David Darom's 3rd book, "Art of Modern Custom
Knifemaking: 100 Custom Knife Related Projects in the
Making". |
Fileworking
the already ground blade. For this process, the blade
is attached to the vise using a piece of leather to protect
it while securing it in place. The file depends on the
desired results. (Pictures 1 and 2)
Heat treating the blade on my own shop, using an electronic
regulated oven, which allows me to control all the variables
of this process. (Pictures 3 and 4)
Once the blade stayed on the oven the needed time, it
has to be taken out and placed on oil for quenching it.
This process needs to be repeated later at lower temperatures
later to relieve stress on the metal. (Pictures 5
and 6)
With a sand paper wrapped on a cube of wood, I polish
the sides and spine of the blade, achieving a hand rubbed
satin finish. (Pictures 7 and 8) |
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Picture 2 |
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Picture 3 |
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Picture 4 |
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Picture 5 |
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Picture 6 |
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Picture 7 |
Finished
blade. (Pictures 9 and 10)
After picking a high quality piece of stag, I cut it to
the desired measure with a hacksaw. As the finished handle
will be sanded, there's no need to protect it from the
damage the vise might cause. (Pictures 11 and 12)
Sanding the stag. (Pictures 13 and 14) |
| Picture 8 |
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Picture 9 |
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Picture 10 |
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Picture 11 |
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Picture 12 |
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Picture 13 |
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Picture 14 |
With
the piece of stag already roughly sanded, it's time to
make the decorations on it, using a small round file.
Once this job is finished, the stag will be ready to be
dyed and get it’s final polishing. (Pictures
15 and 16)
The first step to make the several nickel silver fittings
is to take them to the desired shape. After measuring
the stag's bottom, I use a jewelry cube with different
sized molds to make the buttcup. (Pictures 17, 18
and 19)
Before getting chiseled, the already shaped pieces need
to be annealed and filled with liquid sealing wax. This
prevent them to break under the chisel and allows to glue
them to the working surface. (Picture 20) |
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Picture 16 |
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Picture 17 |
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Picture 18 |
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Picture 19 |
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Picture 20 |
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Picture 21 |
With
the nickel silver pieces fixed to the working surface,
now it's posible to chisel the desired patterns into them.
If a piece comes loose, it can be glued back again with
some more sealing wax. (Pictures 21, 22, 23 and 24)
Once the parts are shaped and chiseled, they have to be
soldered together to form the final pieces. To achieve
this, they're placed on a refractary brick and heated
with a torch until the added metal melts. (Pictures
25, 26, 27 and 28) |
| Picture 22 |
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Picture 23 |
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Picture 24 |
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Picture 25 |
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Picture 26 |
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Picture 27 |
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Picture 28 |
If
a more complicated pattern is desired, it's drawn on the
piece and a smaller chisel is used to follow the lines.
This process is made entirely by hand and takes a lot
of concentration and a very firm pulse. (Pictures
29 and 30)
Marking some decorative motives on the shaped leather
for the sheath. (Pictures 31, 32 and 33)
This is the already shaped and worked piece of leather
for the sheath, as well as all of the nickel silver fittings,
already chiseled, polished and with a nice patina on them
for an overall aged style. (Pictures 34 and 35) |
| Picture 29 |
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Picture 30 |
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Picture 31 |
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Picture 32 |
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Picture 33 |
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Picture 34 |
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Picture 35 |
| Now
with the added rings on the top fitting. (Pictures
36 and 37) |
| Finished
Knife and Sheath |
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